Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Paris, October 2009, Meeting A Friend, Visiting Shakespeare's Book Shop

Wow! What fun we had today. After doing laundry most of the morning, we readied ourselves to take the Métro line 8 from Boucicaut to Place de la Concorde. There we changed to line 1 to Charles de Gaulle E'toile, where we walked a few blocks to meet our friend, April (now working in Paris's 16e as an au pair for a family with three small children--while she decides on a graduate school).

We waited and waited. Finally, I asked Doug if perhaps he might have misunderstood the time. "No," he says. "I'm positive it was 2:30." By this time, it was 2:45 and nearing the "tastefully late" end zone. As you've no doubt experienced, there are times when you know something is a miss, but you never quite focus on it to resolve whatever it is. Correct? Well, that is what was happening with us. We realized that we'd been miscommunicating since Sunday about what time it was, though neither of us really discussed it, as I kept looking at my watch and it didn't seem to jive with any other clocks around us or the time Doug kept telling me it was when I'd ask. Puzzled, I finally said, "Do the clocks change here--you know, do they "fall" back?" We live in Hawaii and the clocks never change there, but we weren't certain about Paris and we were certain April wouldn't stand us up. Doug pulled out his iPhone and did a search (love modern technology) and lo and behold, it was only 1:45 and we'd already been standing at our designated meeting spot for 20 minutes. With an hour to spare, we decided to stroll around the neighborhood for a bit, then we sat for a while on a bench and just watched Paris hum all around us--well, at least until a young man decided to share our street bench and light up a strong smelling cigarette. We found it more enjoyable to walk at that point. Before we knew it though, it was time to walk back to the Teres Métropolitan where we were to meet April.

She was prompt and we were thrilled to see her again, it has been well over a year since she had dinner with us Thanksgiving before last--in fact, it seems that it has been almost two years. She had just graduated from U Penn and joined us, with her parents, for dinner--one of my big feasts I so adore putting on the table and sharing with our friends.

The three of us walked a block or so and decided to dine at a Lebanese restaurant along the way. The lunch time was nearly over, but they still accommodated us. We had a delicious lunch which included a large basket of unlevened flatbread and a huge plate each with ground lamb sausage, two in fact that measured about eight inches each, two generous scoops of very good hummus with a pool of nutty high-quality olive oil in the middle of each, and generous serving of tabouli, as well as another platter containing olives and marinated vegetables. We ordered a nice bottle of red wine to go along with it and ate while we listened to April's adventures and caught up on what her future plans are. She leaves for Cambodia in a week, where she'll connect with her friend who works at the orphanage there in Phnom Penh--it's a orphanage where April's father started an organization that matches orphaned children with foster e-mail parents. We envy April her youth and all the wonderful activities she's enjoying at her tender age and we wish her the best.

Unfortunately, in a rare display by any French restaurant, the patron and staff were eager to leave for the rest period and they literally hovered over us, with the door open to freeze us out, in an attempt to rush us. In all the years we've been traveling to France, it is the first time we've every been rushed. It's too bad, too, as we were really enjoying our conversation with April and this brought it to an abrupt end. We'll know next time to dine there earlier in the day, so that we have time to linger a bit.

After a wonderful meal, we walked toward l'Arc de Triomphe, but it was crowded so we decided to take the Métro over toward Notre Dame, since I needed to buy some more reading material and Shakespeare & Company, I'd heard, carries books written in English. Indeed we found some books in my favorite genre: nonfictional historical-travel. We were fortunate enough to get a signed book by one of the authors, Rosemary Bailey, who was a week-end guest at the shop. This book, entitled "Love and War In The Pyrenees," is based upon the authors experiences as they mirror those of a young couple who lived in the same place during 1939, during France's dark years. Looks like a very good read.

We were shocked by the number of people wandering around the plaza in front of Notre Dame. It seemed like the crowds of summer, not Fall. We meandered through the crowd, stopping briefly to listen to two young lads who played pretty good jazz on their instruments. From there we found the book store, then strolled over to the 6e to St. Germaine and caught the Cluny-Sorbonne line 8 toward Balard, then the Sèvres-Babylon line to Convention.

It's strange to have our clocks readjusted and see that it is 7:30 and pitch dark out. Ha! We've been wrong since Sunday about what time it is. Good thing we're on a working vacation, and made this discovery of time change, or we could have encountered some glitches that we might have regretted!

We haven't had time to make plans for tomorrow, but I'm certain that we'll find ourselves out there again wandering around and sharing our adventures with you.

In the meantime, enjoy the photographs below.

Jerry Lee Lewis Is Still Alive? Amazing! (Métro Art at Sèvres-Babylon Station)

The Métro Station At Cluny-Sorbonne--Very Attractive

We Found Some More Reading Material Here, In English

The Famous Shakespeare & Company Book Store

The Grand Old Cathedral, Notre Dame

This Street Performer Only Wants A Pat On The Head

Evening Shadows Create A Nice Back Ground For The Entrance To Notre Dame

Burgeoning Jazz Musicians Settled Into A Sunny Spot To Make A Day's Wage

The Tall American With Hands In The Air? It's Doug, Of Course

Unusually Large Tourist Crowd At Notre Dame, It Is Off Season, Right?

Touristy Shops & Eateries Line The Streets Around Notre Dame

Notre Dame's Bright Spot

A Bird's Eye View Of The Gargoyles At Notre Dame

Least Photographed Building, Across From Notre Dame

If Standing In A Long Line At Notre Dame Gives You A Pain, There Are Therapists Available

Notre Dame Looms Above This Fall Color Spot Near Shakespeare's Book Store

Fall Flowers Grace Sidewalks Near Shakespeare's Book Store, Ile de St. Louis

An Otherwise Gray Blank Wall Becomes Art In Paris

A Beautiful Day Along The Seine Brings People Out To Bask In The Bright Sunlight

Book Salesmen Line The Quai Hotel De Ville On The Walk To Notre Dame

Architecture Of Interest In The 16e, Commercial District

Lunch At Nai, Cuisine Libanaise (Lebanese)

Exchange Of Bises À La Française!

Waiting At The Ternes Métro Station To Connect With Our Friend, April

Next Post: More About Paris in the Fall

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Paris, October 2009, Sunny Sunday

Yesterday was rainy and cool, today sunny and warm. In fact, a long sleeved tee shirt and fleece vest with a scarf around my neck proved to be perfectly comfortable all day.

We walked from our apartment up rue du Commerce and enjoyed walking through the hugely popular open-air market at Grenelle. This market is held twice weekly and runs the distance under the viaduct of the Métro line along rue du Grenelle. I've got a promise from Doug that next Sunday we'll bring our pull cart, used for grocery shopping, and shop this great market. It was quite impressive with displays of beautiful fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, flowers, and you name it! I'd pay a bundle for such great supplies back in Hawaii and it literally kills me to simply walk by and not load up.

We hung around the market for a great long time drawing in the sounds and aromas and listening to chatter of locals as they visited with familiar merchants.

From there we walked to a garden pathway to stroll along the Seine toward Trocadero, the Eiffel and on to Branly museum. I'm quite sure that we walked a good six miles--at least my feet thought so--and then came upon a nice exhibition of photographs at the Branly along the Seine parkway. It seems that this is an international display by artists who are not well known but who can submit entries and contend for selection. The display was quite amazing and most of the entrants were from third world countries. We spent a great deal of time looking at this art display before leaving to explore an area along Place de la Resistance, that we have never walked. The weather was so fine, it seemed ashamed not to be out and many other people felt the same as we encountered rather large crowds of Sunday walkers.

Once through Place de la Resistance we found ourselves back near Grenelle, where we caught the Line 8 car back to the 15e from the 7e. We were thirsty and tired, so decided to stop at a little brasserie (La Petite Rotonde) about a block from our apartment and right at the Métro station Boucicaut (next stop after Commerce), where we get off. They're very nice in this place and we ordered a pichet of Rosé from the Luberon as well as a plate of paté du fois gras which came with a bit of salad, some caramelized onions and pieces of toasted bio bread. It was tasty and the Rosé refreshing. We lingered there for a little over an hour before walking home to post our daily photographs.

All in all, it was another spectacular day. Tomorrow is laundry, cleaning and shopping day but I'm sure we'll find some niche that is worth a photo. In the meantime, enjoy the following snaps of today's activities. It truly is nice to visit Paris during Fall. Few tourists and nice weather. We just weren't up to fighting the crowds at the Grand Palais, but we're not worried about it--there will always be a new and equally as exciting exhibition of art when once closes.

At Our Métro Stop (Boucicaut) We Stop For An Apéro Before Walking A Block Home

Here Comes Our Line 8 Car Now!

The Underground Métro Station Always Tells You Where You Are

This Entire Building Venerates The Blind

As We Stroll Down Place de la Resistance, Voila! Le Tour Eiffel!

Relief Sculpture Above Entries To Apartment Structures Is Not Unusual, But It Is Classic

I Thought It Interesting That This No Entry Sign Was Placed On A Restaurant

Another Honoree Along The Place de la Resistance, Our Route Back To The 7e Métro

You Can Enjoy The Photo Exhibition At The Branly Every October

The River Buses Where Busy On This Sunny Sunday

This Nice Pooch Was Checking Out Visitors Rather Than Art. He Posed Nicely For Me

Branly Museum Fall Colors

Annual Photo Exhibit At Branly

Photo Exhibition At Branly Museum

Nice View Of Trucadero Museum On This Sunny Sunday Along The Seine

Roses In Bloom Along The Branly Walkway

A Beautiful Fall View Of The Right Bank, Trocadero

The Sun Highlights Buildings In The Distance Near Trocadero and The Eiffel

We Prefer The Non-Crowded Stroll Around The Eiffel Along The Seine

Sunny Sunday Along The Seine, Walking Toward The Eiffel Tower & Branly Museum

A Beautiful Fall Day Along The Seine

Another Honoree Along The Seine On The Walk Toward Branley

Below Ground And Above Ground Rail Systems Allow Free Flow Of Traffic In Paris

Proof Positive, Sunday Is For Strolling Not Biking--Plenty of Velos Available For Rent Today

These Beautiful Fresh Trout Were Selling Fast At Grenelle Market

It's Often Difficult To Walk Through The Grenelle Market, It's So Busy

This Butcher Stirs Steaming Saurkraut, Surrounding Him With Steam, The Smell Was Yummy

Tantalizing Fresh Vegetables Line The Market Place At Grenelle

Fruits de Mers, Fresh Fish Everywhere At Grenelle Market

A Beautiful Display Of Flowers At The Sunday Market At Grenelle

Love These Corner Apartment Buildings On Busy rue de Commerce

A Poissonnier On Commerce Sells Fresh Normandy Oysters On Sunday, Yum!

Typical Trattoria In the 15e (For Exporting Food)

Madame Patiently Waits Until Fifi Decides To Turn And Walk In the Right Direction

Just In Case You're Interested In A Paris Flat (The 16e Is Right Bank, Upper Class)

The 15e rue de Commerce

Next Post: More From Paris In October