Paris, November 2009, Out And About

At last it seems that I've worked the fever and sore throat into a cold, so now I'm starting to feel a bit better. So much so, that we took a stroll out into the 15e today to have a bite to eat for lunch while enjoying the bright sunshiny day being offered.

Backing up a day or two ago, our friends took the TGV from Dijon to Paris on Wednesday afternoon, arriving at our apartment via taxi about 8 p.m. Doug had a bottle of our favorite French champagne (Veuve Clicquot) on ice and I put together the usual "french" apéro snacks of nuts, radishes with butter, olives, a bit of good duck paté and a few bits of bread to smear it on. We chatted for about an hour, then bundled up for the walk down rue de la Convention to our Boucicaut Métro station. We caught the 8 Line to Concorde, walked by the famous Hotel de Crillon ( stunning high-end hotel where all the dignitaries and royals stay), turned down a narrow side street and came to the famous Buddha Bar Paris (they have them all over the world). It was quite an experience. It's very dark inside, but our hostess led us to the bar first where we ordered drinks. Prices are not for the faint of heart, but it was our friend Greg's birthday and we'd asked him to suggest a place, so this was his choice. It's one of those art/techno sound places where the beat is loud and unending and the sound systems pure. Not for those who like intimate quiet dining, for sure! There is a huge Buddha sitting in the main dining room--which we were able to get our table in about an hour later. We were right dab in the middle of the place, so had a good view of the place. We noticed a lot of expensive wines being poured and many big business deals being negotiated. The food was sort of Indonesian, and very good--however, not inexpensive either. We were served our meals at about 11:45 pm, finishing with meals, dessert, and digestif by 12:30 a.m. It was at this point that I detected a significant chill and onset of a sore throat. Must have been too much of the good life!

We were lucky to get to our métro line and catch the last car to Balard (Boucicaut), but our friends weren't so lucky as they were staying near Gare de Lyon and their last car had just pulled out as we arrived. They took a taxi for about 11 euros.

This was a night to remember, for certain.

Thursday I stayed in bed all day, while Doug worked with his mainland U.S. clients. Poor guy, had a SKYPE business meeting that started at 2 p.m. Hawaii time, which meant he had to stay up until 3:30 a.m. by the time his meeting ended. Needless to say, we slept late this morning.

It was nice to have only a slight scratchy throat today and no sign of a fever. When Doug ask if I'd like to get out of the apartment for some fresh air and a bit of lunch, I jumped at the opportunity. Yesterday, between sleeping bouts, taking aspirin and doing laundry, I had enough of being shut-in.

It was sunny today, but brisk and cool. So we bundled up and began our walk. We'd decided to walk into the 15e to Georges Brassens Parc and have lunch at Baranimo. We really like the owner and his wife, they are always genial. Le Monsieur immediately saw us as we approached. He greated us with a hearty "hello" and sat us at what he called his best table. Then he brought us a complimentary glass of wine. He recalled us from the other night. He also suggested that we order the plat de jour, a lovely garlic, butter and wine sauteed serving of fresh sea scallops with some steamed rice. Of course, Doug had long before decided he'd be biting into one of Monsieur's thick juicy perfectly cooked cheese burgers, so he ordered it "au point" and Monsieur smiled and told him he said it "perfectly, as though french." Ha! Doug, who likes to copy Matt Damien in his Bourne movies, was quite pleased!

Our host chatted with us in English, but when I ordered in French, he was pleased and said I did it perfectly. What a charmer, eh? After our delicious meal he also brought us a complimentary apple brandy that was really good and seemed to immediately take away any cold symptoms I had. We each ordered the tarte au poire, which was a light flakey tart with sliced pears and a crumble on top served with crème anglais and vanilla ice cream. So very good. Finally we had an espress so that we could manage a walk about from the restaurant into Georges Brassens, into the 15e and then back home down rue de la Convention. We stopped to see about Saturday night reservations at L'Oie Cendrée, but the patron had already closed for the lunch period so we'll have to telephone him later tonight. We want to experience his delicious cuisine de terroir once more before we're back in Hawaii. With only one week left on our trip, we're already dreading the departure. We both adore Paris.

As we walked through the 15e, we saw a couple more of the Wallace Fountains, stores busily setting up Christmas decorations and stocking shelves with decorations, and brasseries also beginning to decorate for Christmas. Our friends tell us that the french love this season and go all out to decorate and celebrate. We hope to see more decorations before we leave. We noted that rue du Commerce has lights strung across the narrow shopping streets already, so we hope they'll light them before we're gone. It must be beautiful around here during Christmas.

We've been invited to a Christmas party in Dijon for December 27, but it's probably too soon for us to return--not that we wouldn't love to!

Tomorrow should bring both of us better health. So we are hoping. We want to take a night stroll out tomorrow, so we're hoping to be better by then.

This morning I pounded out two small chicken breasts, then put them in a ziplock bag with some pressed garlic, salt, pepper, fresh thyme and olive oil. I'll grill them tonight for dinner and make a nice buerre blanc sauce to put on top. I'll add a little warmed cream and parmesan to some fresh pasta noodles I bought, and we'll have a side of pasta and that lovely Pouilly-Fumé we bought from the Loire Valley. A nice evening inside.

Enjoy some of the photos we took while out and about today. Hopefully we'll have some more to share tomorrow.

Wallace Fountain On Place Henri Follet

Signs Of Christmas Begin To Appear On Sidewalks And In Stores

Nobody Out On rue de la Convention At 1 A.M.

Unusually Quiet At 1 a.m. On A Thursday Morning

Having Fun At The Buddha Bar

Our Franco-American Friends

Cocktails, Then Dinner At The Buddha Bar

Some Veuve Clicquot, Snacks & Friends = Apéro Time

We Await Our Friends From Dijon. An Apéro Before Dining Out

Friends Stop To Chat With The Boulanger On The Corner

Le Boucher (Butcher) In Georges Brassans Parc

A Bust Of Georges Brassens

Fall Colors At George Brassens Parc

A Pause At The Pond, Georges Brassens Parc

A Stroll Through Georges Brassens Parc After A Great Lunch At Baramino

Remnants Of A Once Packed Café

2/3 Of A French Meal Comes In A Glass or Cup

Our Patron (He Comped Us Wine & Apple Brandy!

These Two Eat At Baramino Every Day, So They Get A Taste of 20-Yr Brandy Comped! They Chatted With Us In French And We Answered In English!

A Great Place To Hang Out

You Can Take The Man Out Of America, But You Cant Take American Outta The Man!

Sea Scallops (Plat de Jour). Fabulous!

An Apéritif Avant Le Dejeuner À La Baranimo Café

Next Post: Paris 2009 (November)

Paris, November 2009, Just Being A "Local" Today

After enjoying an evening with our Dijon friends, who arrived on the TGV last evening and arrived at our apartment for an apéro and snacks about 8 p.m., at the Buddha Bar near the Hotel de Crillon (Paris's most famous hotel at Place de la Concorde), I began to feel feverish and ill at about 1 a.m. as we took the last métro car on Line 8 to Boucicaut station.

Today is a cool, cloudy day, suitable for the way your blogger feels at the moment. I've managed a load or two of laundry--so the day's not entirely a wash (no pun intended)--but am trying to recover as quickly as possible in order to finish up our time here which will end November 15.

Of note is the Paris/Berlin celebration to be held Monday night about 7 p.m. at Place de la Concorde. Looking back at my post a day or two ago, I noted that there seemed to be some sort of major construction of bleachers, etc. going on at Place de la Concorde. Now we know! It is this celebration by France, designed to show a stronger nexus with her neighbor, Germany.

The reason I need to get well fast is pretty clear: this sounds like quite a celebration, and if you'd care to read more about it, you can find the story at http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/world/europe/04parisberlin.html.

We have a lot yet to see, so stay tuned.

Paris, November 2009, A Rainy/Sunny Day Out And About

When we got out of bed this morning, late, the sky was gray and it looked way to cold to go out. We immediately decided we'd stay in and read or putter around. It was unanimous. However, by the time we finished with breakfast--about 10--the sun was shining brightly. There's no way to resist the temptation of strolling out into Paris center in such weather. We quickly did our chores, showered, dressed and headed toward the metro line that would take us to Concorde.

The sun was still shining as we leisurely strolled through sections of Tuileries Garden that we had not yet strolled through. This is such a magnificent place. It seems that every corner of the huge garden has some sort of delightful thing just waiting to be discovered, and it really requires some surveillance and a keen eye to take it all in.

On this day not too many people were out and about, which made it even more delightful. We stopped and looked at many of the works of art scattered about the park. As we walked, we suddenly became aware of the fact that our sun shiny day had peaked and large rain-filled clouds hid any evidence that there had once been a sun out this day. We began to pick up our pace a bit--I think the wind-chill that came along with the clouds may have induced the latter--as it was beginning to look like we might be out in the middle of the garden when the storm arrived.

There really is nothing as splendid as coming around a bend and smack in front of the palace Catherine de Mecci had built in the 1500's--now the Louvre--with all its grandeur. It never ceases to take my breath as I gaze at the grand architecture of this old landmark, the fountains and, of course, I.M. Pei's amazing pyramid structures that were latter added. We lingered until the rain did arrive and began to pound. We actually sought shelter for a short period, then walked out when it ceased raining.

We walked to the 6e, by the famous Hemingway hangout, Les Deux Magots, and onto the metro at St. Germaine until we were back in the 15e on rue du Commerce. Of course, once we were on high ground we were face to face with our favorite resto, Café de Commerce, and since our favorite pizza guy was still making pizza, we hurried in and ordered one of his terrific pizzas, the Regina (ham and mushroom), a pot of red wine and the most scrumptious dessert--mine an unforgetable Tarte Fine Au Pommes Avec Glace Vanille (tender flaky buttery crust with thin slices of sweet apple topped with vanilla ice cream--oh yum!) and Doug's chocolate ice cream with chantilly cream on top. I can't think of a better way to wind down the afternoon.

Once we were back home, Doug took the pull cart to Monoprix to pick up some water, wine, cream and orange juice, while I began to concoct a good winter dish the French make called Choucroute. It is a combination of crisped and rendered smoked bacon pieces, in which onion and apple is sauteed, then several varieties of artisan sausage is added and browned, then some brown sugar, white wine, chicken broth, potatoes and finally their delicious homemade sauerkraut. All this is simmered in the oven for a couple of hours and served with good rustic french bread. You can't imagine the aroma in here. It's nearly time to dig in and it will be a pleasure. We've got some good white wine from the Bourgogne that will enhance our one-pot meal.

Here's wishing you a great week. Stay tuned for more of Paris. Enjoy some of what we saw today, below.

Voila! Our Lift (All 3 ft x 3 ft of it!)

Once In The Foyer, Doug Rushes To The Lift (Hey, Rushing Is French!)

Doug Plugs In The Code At Our Apartment So We Can Enter The Foyer

A Rainy Day and The Seine Is Quiet

Hmm. Future Doctors Taking A Smoke Break Outside The University of Paris? Hmm.

A Rare Scene: A Waiter Standing Amongst Empty Tables At Les Deux Magots!

A Tart Fine Au Pommes Avec Glace Vanille! Forget Doug's Ice Cream!

We Were Lucky Today, The Pizza Guy Was Baking At Café de Commerce! Ah, oui!

The Storm Passes And It's Sunny On Rue du Commerce

Handsomely Designed Apartment, Felix Faure, 15e. I'll Take It!

15e Furniture Store Displays Characteristic Platform Beds Of France (No Kings)

Only One Doug, But Many Of These Beautiful Fountains Of Potable Water In Paris

Military Guards Are A Show Of Force On The Right Of The Small Pyramid

The Impressive Louvre Grounds

Dapper Doug (not Dan) In Front Of The Louvre Fountain/Pyramids

The Elegant Arched Entry To The Louvre With Elements of Marble, Gold, Bronze And Stone

A Statue Of Venus Stands Above The Sculptured Shrubbery, Looking Elegant!

From The Tuileries To The Grounds Of The Louvre, As The Rain Nears

When The Birds Began To Lie Down, We Knew The Rain Was Coming. It Came!

Gray Is The Color Of The Day. At Least At This Time!

An Exhibition Of Large Silver Heads. Interesting.

This Lioness Kills A Bird Of Prey To Feed Her Cubs

This Lioness In The Foreground Of Le Louvre Kills An Alligator

An Interesting Combination Of Ancient Sculpture And Modern Art

Even With A Wind-Chill, One Feels Warm

Not An Uncommon Sight To See Empty Chairs With a Wind-chill and Rain

This Statue Provides A Perch For Two Cold Pigeons, Huddling Together At Top His Head

Notice How French Children Contemplate, rather than climb on, Art

More Art In The Park, Tuileries

More Art In The Park At Tuileries

Fall In Paris

A Huddle Is Perfect On This Wind-Chill Autumn Day In Paris

It Was A Cold Day, As Seen By The Fluffed Feathers Of These Sun Bathers

Sculpted Shrubs At Tuileries, Always A Delight To See

A 16th Century Park With Contemporary Art! Gotta Love Paris!

Tuileries Garden, Next To Place de la Concorde

Stacks Of Bleacher Materials. We'll Keep Our Eyes Open For A Fête!

Next Post: Paris November 2009