Dijon, And Beyond, August 10-11, 2010

This House Is For Sale, But The Time Is Not Right

A View On A Side Street At The Plaza Des Ducs, Dijon

The Arch Upon Entering The Darcy/Libertie Neighborhood of Dijon At Night

A Quick Spin Through The Shopping Zone Of Dijon On Thursday

An Enjoyable Stroll Through Darcy Park, Dijon

A Lovely Fountain In Darcy Park, Dijon

Darcy Park, Dijon

Searching For A "Local" Restaurant (Off The Beaten Path) Was Well Worth It

The Grandpére Of The Owners, Enjoys His Pipe & White Wine On The Terrace Of The Restaurant Of The Church 

9€ Lunch, .90 Wine, 1.50 Petit Café.  Amazing!

Colorful Tiled Rooftops Of The Grands Crus

The Main Road, Next To The Church, Leading Through Marsannay La Côte

This Flower Shop Bears The Name Of One Of Our Hawaiian Islands

An Old Church In Marsannay La Côte (Just Outside of Dijon)

Stone Buildings Renovated Into Quaint Housing, Marsannay La Côte

Bronze Of Wine Workers, Marsannay La Côte France

The Mairie's Offices, Marsannay La Côte

Another War Memorial, This One In the Courtyard Of The Mairie's Offices

Our day began on Thursday with a "meet up" with our friend, Laetitia, near Picard in the center of Dijon.  She took us on a pied-a-terre of the city center, pointing out the best places to shop, then took us to Darcy Park and finally to the Colonies tea shop where we enjoyed a wonderful coffee and shared a lemon tart.  It was a beautiful, warm, sunny day in Dijon but with a nice breeze--just perfect for a stroll.

After our previous day in Dijon, we drove to Varois et Chaignot, a small village just outside of Dijon (about 6 kilometers).  We really do like this small village not only because the homes are nice and more modern but also because the village has a small commerce area to buy simple grocery items, bread and cheese, but it also sports a few cafés.  Many of the small villages do not have any amenities, making it necessary to drive into Dijon proper for services.  We found the home (pictured above), which we had seen online and is for sale under $250,000.  An adorable home with three bedrooms but in need of updating regarding the kitchen.  We decided that we've had enough remodeling (we've been in this phase at our Honolulu home since February 4 and right up until three days before we left for France) for the time being and have tabled any idea of purchasing of a second home at this time.  It was a nice thought, though, and one we will definitely revisit someday.

Yesterday, which was August 12 (boy times flies when you're having fun!), we drove to Chenove to scout out a restaurant where we thought we might have dinner (Clos Du Roy) to celebrate our friend's birthday (her favorite, she said).  Unfortunately, the restaurant is closed for August (oh the perils of traveling anywhere in France during July/August!) vacances.  Though our moods were dampened by the closed restaurant in Chenove, we looked around and found a small café off the beaten path in small wine village, Marsannay La Côte.  To our good fortune, we found Le Restaurant de l'Eglise, where we had a fabulous lunch and very traditional.  For only €23, we each enjoyed a generous glass of local red wine, a petit café, and a huge plate of salad topped with hot crisp-but-tender-inside bits of potato, œufs en meurette (an amazing way to poach eggs in a wine sauce and placed a top a crostini), a generous slice of terrine du jambon, sliced tomatoes with Dijon mustard dressing, cornichon pickles and green olives.  This was served with a huge basket of fresh artisan french bread.  Oh la la, we could hardly move after devouring this delicious meal.  If ever in this region, we suggest you stop here for lunch and whatever is written on the black board as the special don't hesitate to order!  We'll talk about this one for a long time to come.

We drove back to our exchange home for a bit of a rest before meeting our friends for dinner.  I think I was still full when dinner hour arrived at about 8 p.m.  I did order a small pasta dish at Il Restorante (our second choice restaurant, a new restaurant that is very modern and very popular in the suburb of Quetigny, just outside of Dijon), but had to pass on coffee and dessert and could not imagine one bite of bread either!  We enjoyed a nice four-hour meal with our friends--mostly talking about politics and the like.  Our friend Laetitia doesn't speak much English, so no doubt was lost, but we'll be paid back as today we are going to her family home in Semur en Auxois and her family speaks only French.

I will take many pictures of the beautiful village we will visit today.  We've heard from many people that it is the most beautiful village in all of France.  There is to be a fête there tomorrow, and if we don't go to the country we will be able to take some pictures. Let's hope!

Stay tuned for more travels in France.   

A Quiet Day In Dijon, August 11, 2010

Shopping & Other Clues

Certain Rules Of Shopping

Carrefour Wines of the Bourgogne

Today is a quiet day. That is because I'm going to cook (or I have already done so) for our friends in Couternon, a short 10 minute drive from here. Since they have a nice hot tub and the weather is gray today, they've asked that we bring our prepared meal to their home and after dinner we will enjoy the hot tub.

In preparation for this fête, we ran some errands. Yesterday and today to Carrefour as well as to Picard today. Yesterday, while at Carrefour, the strangest thing happened to me. I was busy looking at some pork tenderloin and some chicken breasts to put into the two curries I had planned for tonight. Suddenly I heard my name being called and I looked up, in shock of course since not a sole knows me locally and it surely wasn't the voice of our friend Greg who was beckoning me, and a tall nice looking older man was pointing at me, definitely saying my name and walking toward me. I quickly checked to make sure I hadn't dropped my purse (crazy thought since I had a pouch firmly hooked around my waist--a nice Gucci that I have my husband to thank for--and then the man said: I saw your pictures, I read your blog. Then I put two and two together, realizing that I'd seen this man before and that his picture is on the bedroom wall of the adorable little girl and boy of our exchangers. Of course! It was their grandpere! Soon their grandmere appeared also.

They knew we were going to be at the Carrefour as we'd chatted with their son earlier, and they were also there buying groceries while also looking for us. I had to laugh and I asked grandmere if we looked like Americans. She also laughed and said, "No, we saw your pictures already." That was a relief as we try very hard not to look like tourists, ha!

So, in addition to the previous engagements I told you about in yesterday's posts, we are now adding more. First, we've been invited to have another french meal at the Blondeau residence about seven kilometers from here. We are so excited about this, since sharing in the culture of this wonderful country is something we enjoy immensely. We've made such endearing friendships this way. Also, I forgot to mention that before leaving Honolulu our friend Liliane, a wonderful person and artiste in Lourmarin (Provence) invited us to spend two nights with her. So we will be taking photographs of our added adventures and sharing them with you as well.

Now, back to today. When you shop here in Dijon (and in France), there is a "green" philosophy permeating the country and because of this groceries bags are not provided. Instead, reusable bags may be purchased by consumers. We have several of these wonderful bags--made of recycled materials--that we carried home and used in our own state. Also, our exchangers have many of these bags, so we are never without. The bags are inexpensive, running about .60 cents and you may purchase them at the check-out stand where the cashier will mark on the bottom of the bag a number showing that you made the purchase. That way, when you return to the store at a later date for more shopping, it will be clear that you've already purchased the bag.

Another interesting aspect of shopping is that you must pay for use of a shopping cart. There is a small coin slot at the handle of the cart with a lock and chain hooked there. You insert a one euro coin into the slot and the chain will release. The euro is inside the slot and cannot be removed to be replaced in your pocket, until you also return the cart. Once the lock is re-inserted, the euro will be released. This is also something we found at the aeroport in Marseille. So, before leaving the U.S., it is wise to have a few euro coins in your pocket. We keep our one euro in the car so that we always have one when needed. This way, the store doesn't have to hire people to gather up carts and carts are not strewn all over the parking lot, nor do people try to steal away with them. This is an excellent idea, for certain. If you are making just a small purchase, there are small plastic pull carts inside the store and there is no charge for use of them. However, they do not hold a lot and most people take the large carts even for a small purchase. It's not inconvenient.

The Carrefour store, as previously stated, is huge. They have a wonderful wine section with wines that have been produced throughout France. It's very convenient to locate a particular wine, since they are displayed by regions. We easily found the Bourgogne wines and have been experimenting with them. For $15-$20 we've found some young but drinkable wines and when served with local cheeses and such, they are quite nice. Today, for instance, we wanted a German Gwertzimiener to go with our spicy curry tonight, and we looked for the wines of Alsace and found a good one right away. It now sits in the frigo, getting its chill.

After the rest period today, we also went to a small store called Picard. This is a very clean store with only frozen foods, all packaged nicely and marked clearly in sections. We found the section for appetizers to accompany an aperitif, and voila some delicious bites--20 to a box--were just what we wanted. We need only pop them into an oven for a few minutes and we'll have our snacks.

Carrefour has a huge bakery section and the French buy their pastries and bread fresh daily. So, we also picked up some delicious creamy mousse de canard (paté) to serve tonight, along with a lovely apple tart, some vanilla ice cream and a fresh baguette of french bread. In addition, we put a bit of fresh cheese into the cart just in case that is the preference of our friends. While going to Picard, we passed by a small fruit and vegetable vendor.

We know what the rules are, but you may not, so I'll tell you. Never, I repeat "never" assume that you may pick up anything you see and handle it. The people who sell these fruits and vegetables--or any product for that matter--prefer to not have people touching everything. They take great pride in what they sell and especially in fruit stands they don't want anything bruised. So, we selected the carton of lovely strawberries we wanted and madame gratefully picked up the carton and placed it into a special paper, then put it into our bag that we carried into Picard. She wished us a good day and thanked us and we reciprocated, waving as we left.

One more cultural difference we have discovered and which is worthy of sharing, is that when you buy gasoline you first pump the gas and then pay. There is a huge element of trust in this behavior, one that we admire. It is as though the French say: We know you would not take gasoline without paying, so please go ahead and pump first. In the U.S., one must first put the credit card into the machine or give money to the attendant. We like the way it is done here.

In driving on the streets we also know that the French are very polite when it comes to yielding to someone to the right. Even if nearly through the intersection, they will stop and yield. Very nice indeed.

Well, that's a bit of culture for you. Tomorrow we venture out and we'll have more photos to share regarding local communities.

The Grands Crus of Burgundy, August 9, 2010

By September These Grapes Will Be Ready For Harvest

Gentile Country Pastures Along The Route Leading To The Grands Crus

Nuits Saints-Georges, The Grands Crus of Bourgogne

We Successfully Purchase Gas For Blue Goo At A Ford Dealership In Nuits St. Georges

This Tractor Fits Nicely Over The Grape Vines and Is Commonly Seen Moving On Streets Of The Grands Crus As It Moves From Vineyard To Vineyard

Beune, The Popular City Of The Grands Crus Wine Region

L'Arc Leads Us Into The Beune Old Town

Sitting Proudly Between Audi & Mercedes Is The Blue Goo, First To Arrive For Lunch!

Gnocchi At Le Chef Coq

Le Chef Coq Rendition Of Thai Shrimp...I Can Do Better In Flavor

Old Commercial Section Of Beaune Approaching Centre Ville

An Unusual Quiet Spot In Beaune

A Colorful Business In Beaune

This Immoblier (realtor) Attracts Buyers To His Listings By Posting A Picasso

This Youth Group From The Church, Entertain Tourists & Make A Little Money In The Process

Beaune Is Quaint, Cute BUT Way Too Touristy For Us, A Good Place To Visit Sept.

A Tour Bus Stands Out Amount Grape Vines

"Nostalgie" (Oldies but Goodies) Is Big In France, The Theater Shows Laurel & Hardy

A Side Street In Beaune Offers Some Relief From The Intense Summer Sun

The Butcher Shop Is Also Closed

Many Beaune Shops Are Closed During August While Owners Vacation

Pedestrains Only In Beaune

A Forest Lines The Road Leading Out Of Nuits St. Georges

Houses Abut Streets, But Thick Stone Walls Prevent Noise Penetration

Beautiful Tile Roofs Sparkle In The Noon-day Sun, Adding Texture To Gray Villages

Wine Country Villages Are Colorful And Clean

The Dazzling Small Village Of Meuilley, High Country

Meuilley, A Village In The High Wine Country

A Narrow Wild Flower Lined Country Road Draws Us To The High Wine Country

A Slice Of Farm Land Next To The Michelin Restaurant, Le Chef Coq, Where We Ate Lunch (Restaurant/Hotel In Background)

A Colorful 2CV Rests In This Nuits Saints-Georges Carport

This Sign, Posted In A Quiet Nuits Saints-Georges Neighborhood, Honors A Fallen Neighbor

This Tidy Village of Nuits Saints-Georges Is Cleaned All Day By This Gentleman

A Small Wine Village In The High Wine Region Above Beaune

Not Your Ordinary Traffic, Except In The Grands Cru. This Guy Is Heading To Hautes Côtes

The Vine Grids Are A Painter's Delight With Contrasting Texture And Colors

Vines Are Impeccably Manicured And Placed In Grids

Another Religious Sculpture Protecting The Village Beyond

The Children Of The Grands Cru

This Religious Stained Glass & Stone Shrine Houses The Madonna And Is Maintained By The Village

Fresh Flowers Are Placed At The Foot Of The Madonna In The Shrine

Although we'd visited the Grands Crus a few days ago, we only saw a bit of Nuits Saint-Georges before we were to tired to go on, so we decided a Monday would be a good day to revisit. It was a very warm day, I'd say about 85 fahrenheit, but it seemed much warmer walking around sunny villages.

We Drove on "green roads" which are nonpaying roads but not as rural as some of the more remote roads we've been on. Mostly, however, we saw pasture lands and small farms on this route. At one point the Route Des Grands Crus merges with the highway we took.

We drove into Nuits Saint-Georges and turned right at the first light to see if this time we might be able to snag a table at the Michelin restaurant, Le Chef Coq, We tried to have lunch there last Wednesday, but when we arrived a note on the door explained that they were closed on Wednesdays. No doubt a work slow down in August may have had something to do with it, as well. August is definitely the month for "vacances" in France. In fact, unlike our last dining experience when we were able to eat inside the lovely air conditioned dining room, we were only able to dine out on the terrace this time and there was much less pompe and circumstance and a limited fixe prix menu as well. We're quite certain it must be because it is August and the chef must need time to rest as well.

We had our choice of three courses. For my entrée, I chose the roasted slices of marinated egg plant topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil, while my husband selected the chilled white green bean gazpacho. Both were extraordinarily delicious. Before our entrée, I should mention, we had an aperitif of a crisp white burgundy wine and they also provided us with a small tower or snacks to enjoy. Our next course, or plat principal, for me was a Thai shrimp concoction and for my husband gnocchi. Both were good, but being from Hawaii and knowing how to cook most Asian dishes, I should have known better than to order something Asian. I was critical of the dish, and felt I could have done a much better job. Ce la vie! Dessert was scrumptous: a chocolate brownie baked in a small loaf pan, still warm from the oven, and it oozed rich creamy chocolate when I cut into it. Also on the plate were tiny sweet strawberries, a small tub of gooey caramel and some devilishly rich vanilla bean ice cream. My husband ordered fresh strawberries with a gelée champagne topping and he enjoyed it, but after I took my limited three bites of dessert he happily dug into the rest. It was amazingly yummy.

We followed our meal with a strong petit café and rested for a bit before climbing back into Blue Goo. We were first in the restaurant but by the time we left, cars were parked all over and most were very expensive cars and everyone in the restaurant, except the two of us, were french and seemed to be recognized by the small wait staff. Since this restaurant is off the beaten path, we consider it a hidden gem. At 23.50 euros for a three course lunch, it's not exactly inexpensive either, especially when you add a couple of glasses of wine at 7-12 euros each.

Instead of driving back toward Nuits Saint-Georges, we turned left to see what was up the road. It was our first time on this back road and we had no idea how many small wine villages were tucked away in the high country above. We found several and these tiny villages were immaculately maintained, all had some religious object standing guard over them, and seemed to be quite lively--unlike those remote villages of the Champagne region north of Dijon. We enjoyed the drive to higher ground, and can recommend it for sure. The vineyards of the Haute Crus are so immaculately groomed, not a weed can be seen. The vineyards are beautifully terraced and laid out in grids, giving the appearance of a patchwork quilt. Quite amazing, indeed. The vistas are quite remarkable and the entire wine region can be seen from there. It seemed cooler and more pleasant and we were the only people up in the region, with the exception of people who lived there.

After driving around the Grands Crus, we drove toward Beaune. What a difference in the number of people visiting. It was hot, crowded and difficult to find parking. Walking on the streets was not pleasant because there were so many people. It was a colorful little town, but just way too popular for us. We could see "tourist trap" on every bend and turn in this town, with ice cream cone and t-shirt shops everywhere. We walked on the shady side of the streets, found a brasserie, drank down a coke and agreed that we'd seen quite enough of the village. Perhaps a return trip some time during fall, we acknowledged, would be a good idea.

We arrived home around 7:30 p.m. and I went right to work trying to create my own Michelin meal. I deboned a chicken and made a delicious gnocchi dish with a wine sauce. It was as good if not better than my lunch. We set the dining table table, opened some good burgundy and enjoyed a quiet evening at home.

It was a wonderful day and we're now ready to say that we've seen enough of the upper and lower wine country of the Grands Crus. Our next adventure will be as far as Chalon-sur-Saône, a beautiful city on the river Saône that we visited a few years ago while on a wine cruise up the Rhône and Saône.

Tomorrow I am cooking curry for our friends in Couternon, so it is doubtful that we'll be traveling out from Dijon. Instead we'll be seeing the inside of the super marché, bakery and Picard.

On our agenda in the coming weeks are several things of interest: another dinner in a french household (father and mother of our exchange friends), an overnight visit with friends in Semur-en-Auxois, and a french wedding. These cultural experiences are something we cherish and feel to fortunate to be able to enjoy. We will look forward to sharing them with you.

We'll travel out again Thursday, so stand by.