On the last day of October, and with Doug's cold still apparent but he sounds much less congested, he insists that we go out into Paris Center. After a full day and a half of lounging, he's going to go crazy if he doesn't get out, he says. Obligingly, I shower and dress, fix a light breakfast of yogurt, a tangerine and some Petit Dejeuner biscuits. We down a cup of coffee and a glass of juice and viola, we're off.
We took the Line 8 to Line 1 Métro, getting off at Champs Elysée/Clemenceux and walked from there to the Grand Palais, just across the street. We entered to see the exhibit of Renior, an amazing walk through the life and time of this great painter from the time he was young until he was very old and severely crippled by arthritis. The exhibition was set up with 15 different rooms and it was easy to see how he moved from one masterpiece to another. For example, his early nudes were of very young girls with little background focus. His ultimate paintings of nudes were of fully developed with large women displayed in equally as large depiction of nature, making woman more of an equal with nature--natural--rather than a fragment of it. The result was bold and quite an amazing contrast to his early paintings.
Following the exhibition of Renior, we then took the Istanbul/Byzantium exhibition seeing many artifacts of the early days and the influence of this part of the world on Europe and its arts and customs.
By the time we spent a 5-hour day inside, we were not only exhausted mentally from so much stimulation, but we needed to have something to eat and to rest our weary feet.
We walked by the Presidential Palace and were fortunate enough to be walking by at the changing of the guard. We were awe stricken by the number of designer shops that surrounded the presidential palace, as if to say: This is for you Sarko and Carla! It was quite a display and we walked by each display window enjoying the dazzling arrays of le mode fashion in Paris.
We didn't see much in the way of brasseries and we were wondering where on earth to get something to eat when I came up with the brilliant idea of taking the Métro line 8 to Grenelle and going to Le Suffren. This is my favorite place to go for oysters, muscles and fries and they have an impressive but reasonable wine list as well. The apéro hour was just beginning, so we were lucky to score a nice table and our favorite waiter. We ordered a delicious crisp white wine called Rully 1er Cru from Bourgogne and it was absolutely wonderful and complimented the dozen sweet medium sized fresh oysters on the half-shell we ordered. After we rested from that taste treat, we each ordered a bowl of steamed muscles and frites. Honestly, there were so many muscles that neither of us were able to finish--although we came very near. It was difficult to stop but we felt it was that or we'd have to be carried home! We topped this delicious fresh seafood meal off with a noisette and then did, in fact, waddle back to the 15e on foot. It felt good to be out in the fresh air.
By the time we got to the 15e, rue du Commerce was buzzing with people. Our favorite stopping place, Café de Commerce, was already filled with groups of locals enjoying an apéro--you would have had to have arrived much earlier if you seriously expected to find a table there.
We stopped across the street at the little patisserie to buy some fresh bread for breakfast and also a couple of macaroons au chocolat to enjoy on the walk back to the apartment--they simply melt in your mouth and I'd love to know how to make them, delicious!
Tomorrow we're thinking about the market at Grenelle and perhaps a stroll along the Seine. Whatever we do, we'll certainly share it with you.
Enjoy our pictures from today and have a great morning, afternoon or evening (where ever you may be!).
At Café de Commerce You Need To Arrive Earlier Than 5pm For A Table!
It's The Saturday Night Shopping/Apéro Hour On rue du Commerce!
Memories For Barbara, You'll Love Her Blog If You Love Paris! (One Of Her Favorite Restos)
It's The Only Reason We Go To Le Suffren: Moules, Frites, Oysters & Impressive Wine List!
After A 5-Hour Musée Day, The Suffren Muscles Hit The Spot!
He's Smiling Because He Just Ordered Oysters, Muscles, Frites & An Excellent Rully 1er Cru White Wine from Le Bourgogne!
When In Town, The Place Sarko & Carla Hang Out
Private Entrance To The Presidential Palace
Presidential Palace, Changing Of The Guards
Every Worldly Designer Has A Shop Near Sarkozy's Home
All Gates Are Guarded Near The Presidential Palace In The 8e
A Couple Of Ominous Looking Guards Over These Windows
An Elegant Door, Complete With Relief Sculpture
A Lovely Fleur de Lis Window In The 8e, Near The Presidential Palace
A Scantly Clad Romanesque Statue Stands Guard Over This Beautiful Apartment
Presidential Palace Near Grand Palais
A Theater Across From The Grand Palais, Near The President's Palace
The Leaves Of Brown Come Tumbling Down
Samedi Dans Le Champs Elysée
Charles & Doug, Both Great Leaders (I'd Be Lost Without The One On The Right)
A View Of The Fountain At The Grand Palais
Early Modest Nude By Renoir
Renior
Renoir
A Bit Of Renoir
The Wait Was Pleasant With The Musician's Addition
Marguerite Daisies Pepper The Landscape Of The Grand Palais Exterior Garden
We Guessed That These Two Might Be Bored Americans, Tired Of The Wait!
The Queque Wait Was 1.5 Hours From Here!
The Colorful Mums Out In The Garden At The Grand Palais
We Saw Both Exhibitions And Were Happy We Hadn't Missed Them!
The Grand Palais
Next Post: Paris November 2009
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